Since each panel is 12V and the battery bank you would like to charge is 24V, then you will need to series your system to raise the voltage. 4 panels in series should be parallel with another four panels in series or there’ll be some critical power loss. After the panel was passed through the aforementioned Test. You might not have a power distribution panel by the meter, or might not have room within it. On our home, there’s a power distribution panel with a couple breakers right next to the meter box.
As your controller can differ than mine, make certain you use the appropriate mounting terminal. Therefore the charge controller has already started to throttle the panels back a bit and not as current is flowing through the computer system. He may be able to be programmed for the particular type of battery and may also have the facility for a battery temperature sensor. Charge controllers might also have a controlled DC output. The easiest type of charge controller would simply quit charging as soon as the battery voltage reaches a certain degree, and start again whenever the voltage drops.
If you leave the cable from the previous micro-inverter to the array junction box unplugged, then you can be certain that the PV array won’t be energizing the remaining portion of the wiring until you’re prepared for it. Where a more compact cable is related to a bigger cable the fuse needs to be sized to guard the more compact cable. You’ll most likely have a good deal of additional cable you don’t need and pulling is simpler than pushing. Fat cables are costly, bulky and difficult to control.